Hermannsburg Region of Central Australia, Australia

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Hermannsburg Region of Central Australia

In 1877 German Lutheran missionaries Kempe and Schwartz established a mission station around Koprilya permanent waterhole about 125 km west of Alice Springs and named it Hermannsburg, after the town in northern Germany from where they came. They had travelled from Adelaide with a herd of cattle and thousands of sheep for 18 months (having been trapped by drought at a spring on the way) after the explorer Giles had been there in 1872, was amazed at the palms in what is now called Palm Valley and had briefed the Lutheran Church. In spite of opposition of white settlers who chased the local people of their land and could shoot them with impunity, they built a church and proceeded to evangelise the local Arrarnta (or Aranda) people, translating the bible in their language. Hermannsburg was the first town in central Australia and at one stage had as many as 700 Western Arrarnta inhabitants. Although the missionaries discouraged traditional ceremonies, traditional culture remained strong and it still is. The Strehlow family collected traditional objects that have become the centre of controversy as many objects still have deep ceremonial significance.

In 1982 the Lutheran Church handed control back to the traditional Western Arrarnta owners and the community, now called Ntaria, is since run by its own council. The mission buildings have largely been restored and visitors are welcome to explore. The old church is still there and a tea room has been established in the old mission building where visitors may take tea and homemade scones. Many residents have however left the old mission to establish Homeland Centres or outstations on their traditional clan countries. There are around 35 of these small communities, some with their own schools. The family of the famous Aboriginal painter Albert Namatjira, whose inspiration was the landscapes around Hermannsburg, still lives here and a collection of his paintings can be seen in the mission building.

Eighteen km south of Hermannsburg, along a sandy track that mostly follows the dry riverbed of the Finke River, is Palm Valley, that had impressed Giles back in 1872 and still does the same to present day visitors. The valley is actually a narrow gorge with stands of red cabbage palms (Livistona mariae), some reaching as high as 25 metres. This species is unique to this area and found nowhere else. The gorge has over 300 plant species and is a true oasis in this otherwise dry land. On the way to Palm Valley one comes through the Amphitheatre, also called Kalarranga, a group of red sandstone formations in an impressive setting, especially striking after sunrise and in late afternoon.

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